Mallard-Larkins: Smith Ridge to Heart Lake

Mallard-Larkins Pioneer Area, Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forests (north of the North Fork Clearwater River)

The Mallard-Larkins Pioneer Area is a pocket of high, lake-dotted ridges in the mountains between the St. Joe River and the North Fork of the Clearwater. Clearwater Trekking puts it about 60 miles north of Orofino. The most direct route to its best-known lake follows Smith Ridge and Goat Ridge for about eight miles, then drops steeply to Heart Lake below Crag Peak.

Clearwater Trekking says it was the farthest off the beaten path its group had been, and that the trail is used often enough to be well maintained but not so often that it’s crowded.

The hike

The Smith Ridge Trailhead is at the end of a climb up Forest Service Road 700 from the North Fork of the Clearwater River. The Forest Service says the road leaves the river, follows Isabella Creek for about two miles, then climbs about ten more miles to the trailhead where it crosses Smith Ridge Creek. One hiker puts the trailhead 13.5 miles from the North Fork. Clearwater Trekking says there’s parking and a toilet building.

Evans Outdoor Adventures describes the 260,000-acre roadless area as lying between the St. Joe River in the Idaho Panhandle National Forest and the North Fork of the Clearwater River in the Clearwater National Forest. Of its 38 named lakes, Evans calls Heart Lake the crown jewel. Clearwater Trekking calls it the largest.

The route follows Smith Ridge Trail #240. One long-time visitor says the first couple of miles along Smith Ridge feel hardest, climbing about 1,200 feet to the top of Goat Ridge. Evans reached about 6,080 feet at the two-mile mark, then described roller-coaster ups and downs along Goat Ridge as the views opened up. The Larkins Peak junction comes at about 4.5 miles, per the same report.

At about 5.5 miles, Evans caught a glimpse of Larkins Lake below, and at 6.25 miles reached the Larkins Lake junction. There, trail 240 heads left to Larkins and Mud Lakes, and trail 65 continues right toward Heart Lake. Clearwater Trekking says Heart Lake is the third of four lakes along the stretch between Larkins Peak and Mallard Peak. It also notes you can step a short way off the trail to a ledge overlooking Larkins Lake.

Clearwater Trekking describes a natural spring and possible campsite at about 7.5 miles, and recommends refilling water there before dropping to Heart Lake. The final descent is tough, strewn with broken boulders and rocky debris. One magazine writer who rode in with pack stock called the trail into Heart Lake barely manageable even on foot, finishing with a steep, rocky descent. Crag Peak drops sharply into the lake on its northwest side, and Heart Peak rises to the southeast. Northbound Lake lies on the far side of Heart Peak.

The area has its own character. One writer notes it’s not truly alpine, since its summits rarely rise above tree line, but describes blue-green lakes stocked with fish and patrolled by mountain goats. Evans mentions delicious huckleberries and very curious neighbors. Another writer found enough July mosquitoes to keep everyone swatting.

For a longer trip, AllTrails describes a Mallard-Larkins Loop of about 23 miles that links Northbound, Heart, and Larkins Lakes using the Fawn Lake, Heart Pass, Larkins Creek, and Surveyor’s Ridge trails. It says most parties take two to three days.

Tips

Check the road before you drive. In 2024, Clearwater Trekking reported that construction on FS Road 700 limited trailhead access to weekends. Call the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forests for current status.
Fill up at the spring. Clearwater Trekking recommends refilling at the spring around mile 7.5, since not all campsites at Heart Lake have easy access to water.
Save energy for the descent. Two sources describe the final drop to Heart Lake as steep and rocky, and you’ll climb it on the way out.
Plan for mosquitoes in July. One writer found plenty of them.
Go mid-to-late summer. Evans lists mid-to-late summer through early fall as the best season.

Camping

Camping is dispersed around the lakes. SummitPost says backpackers will find several remote camping possibilities at the numerous lakes in the area. We found no Forest Service information on permits, campfire rules, or food storage for the Mallard-Larkins. One trip report on a longer loop here says no permits are required. Confirm with the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forests before you go, and store food securely.

Inside Intel: Heart Lake can be busy even when the trail isn’t. Clearwater Trekking warns that you may have the trail to yourself and still find Heart Lake full of campers. If that happens, the spring and possible campsite at mile 7.5 is a fallback. Larkins Lake, off the trail around mile 6, is another. At Heart Lake itself, pick a site with water access in mind, since Clearwater Trekking says not every campsite has an easy path to the lake.

Trail facts

Distance: About 16.5 miles round trip (about 8 miles one way)
Route type: Out and back
Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous
Elevation: About 2,500 to 3,000 feet of gain in, with a steep final descent to the lake. Trailhead elevation is disputed (see note).
Campsites: Dispersed at Heart Lake, Larkins Lake, and a spring near mile 7.5
Water: Lakes and a spring near mile 7.5. Treat all water.
Permits: None reported. Confirm with the Forest Service.
Bear and food storage: No specific rule found. Store food securely.
Trailhead: Smith Ridge Trailhead, end of FS Road 700 north of the North Fork Clearwater River. No fee (Forest Service).
Season: Mid-to-late summer through early fall
Last verified: September 28, 2026

The Lowdown

The boulder-strewn drop to Heart Lake:

The last stretch to Heart Lake below Crag Peak is a steep descent over broken boulders and rocky debris, and you climb it again on the way out. See how to set your poles for both directions.

See the pole tips →

Where this comes from

This page draws on the sources below, along with other guides and trip reports. Links go to the original pages.

Before you go: This page is based on published trail guides, trip reports, and reviews, along with official park and agency information where we could find it. It’s meant to help backpackers discover new trails, not to replace current, official information. Conditions, closures, permits, campsites, and water sources change, and some details here may be out of date or wrong. Confirm everything with the managing agency and check current conditions before you head out, and don’t rely on this page alone for safety or navigation. Backcountry travel involves risk.